When the first color is printed, replace the type in the
form and take out that used of the first color, filling up the empty
spaces as before. If you do this correctly the two colors will register
exactly. It is a good plan to print several copies of the complete form
before breaking up for colors, and lay them aside to use as test sheets.
The color forms should print directly over these. Always print the
lightest color first.
Movie and Photo Printing:
Thousands of movie cameras are in use and there is a
growing demand for better movie titling. With all due respect to the host
of titling schemes, for finished professional appearance there is nothing
which quite equals a title made on a printing press. Sharp, clear letter
of correct proportions enlarge on the screen without annoying blemishes.
The printer with small or medium size equipment is well fitted to go after
this business, and should be encouraged by the knowledge that thousands of
movie makers have bought presses for that purpose alone.
One of the larger camera concerns recommends using vellum
finish cardboard for titles, which helps to avoid unwanted glare or
reflect on of light when the card is photographed.
Titles are printed in black on white, in white on black,
in silver on black, or (for color movies) in colors. Little decorative
cuts may be used. Many movie enthusiasts make up special backgrounds for
their titles, and photograph them, perhaps with a still camera, after
which they require overprinting with lines of type.
The size of the titles required will depend on the
equipment which the camera owner has for reproducing them. Most movie
photographers read magazines which give them a wealth of information on
the subject, so we will not go into details here, except to remark that it
may be well to remind prospects that they can get so-called positive film,
that is, film which well enable the printer to use black ink instead of
white, yet give the same final effect in the title on the screen.
Like movie titles, there is business to be obtained in
titling photographs, including photo post cards. Many photographers have
presses for this work alone. Titling can be done in black on the finished
print, or on the negative. If done on the negative, the letters will show
white on the finished card or print. Both methods are much used. Regular
printer's ink will be satisfactory to use on negatives and also on prints,
although some people prefer to use the stiffer bond ink on post card
Raised Printing Like Engraving or Embossing:
A good portion of the cards, stationery and such work
which you see, and which have the raised appearance of engraving. are not
engraved at all, but produced with a printing press and type, like yours.
All you need, aside from your regular outfit, is either
gloss or dull raised printing compound, and a source of heat. Here is how
Set up the form, and print in the usual manner. While the
ink is still moist, dust each sheet lightly with the compound. (you'll
find it in the supply book under "Raised printing compounds.") Shake off
the surplus, and put for a second near enough a heater (like a toaster,
table stove or electric hot plate) for the powder to liquify, which it
will do immediately. Remove the sheet and the compound will solidify
instantly, so that you can lay one on another without danger of
offsetting. The result will be either a glossy raised or a dull slightly
raised effect, depending on which kind of compound you use, the gloss or
For general purposes the gloss compound is usually best,
but for wedding announcements and business cards which must look engraved,
the dull should be used. The raising is not so pronounced on the dull, but
it is more in keeping with plate engraving.
The raising compound is also made in gold and silver
bronze. For these, print with brown, tan or yellow ink, as the compounds
are not transparent, and will not allow the colors of the ink to show
You’ll also find an electric raised printing unit in the
catalog, made especially for the job. It is big enough to handle anything
up to 12 inches wide, and it is a worthwhile investment particularly if
you intend to specialize on cards, stationery, wedding announcements or
Christmas cards can be a big source of profit for the
printer. The cards can be a big source of profit for the printer. The
cards may be made in their entirety, or they may be bought ready for
imprinting with your customer's name. Designs are available in standard
cuts, or you can make them yourself on linoleum blocks, described
The biggest volume is on the imprinting. You can obtain
the cards and envelopes with the designs and sentiments engraved,
lithographed, or in offset gravure, the only work necessary on your part
being the printing in of the name. The sale of Christmas cards begins in
the summer months. Orders can be taken in July, August, or September, for
delivery in December. However, there is plenty of business that you can
get in October, November and December.
Binding and Stapling:
If you look at the Kelsey Supply Book, you will see it is
stapled on the sides, whereas the Guide is bound through the center -
Center stapling can be used when all the sheets are of
such a size that they run through to make four pages each, such as the
If, however, some of the sheets are single, it is evident
that stapling through the center is not going to hold them; and side
binding is used, as in our Printer's Supply Book.
If center binding is wanted in spite of one or more single
sheets, the singles can only be made secure by using appear wide enough to
go by the center line, so that the center staples will catch and hold
Binding machines will be found in our supply book which
will do both side and center binding. Staples of various lengths of prong
or leg are furnished to take greater or lesser thicknesses. The diameter
of the wire varies, too. One binder is made with attachments to take two
different diameters of wire, and four lengths of leg.
Short leg staples are best for three or four thicknesses
of paper - for instance, quarter inch leg staples will fasten a thickness
of about an eight of an inch, more or less, and leave an eight of an inch
to clinch on the other side. A 3/8 inch leg will bind a quarter inch, plus
1/8 inch for the clinch, etc.
Stitchers using continuous wire are made, but as they cost
in excess of $100, we will not describe them here. Bookbinding - that is,
sewing with bookbinders' thread, is another variant which requires
separate coverage. The printer with small and medium sized equipment will
find the hand binder such as the 1A with light wire accessories the most
useful addition to his layout.
Inexpensive card cases make excellent premiums for card
orders. They are priced low enough so that you can offer one free with
each card order, and the results are usually very gratifying. Card cases
prevent the cards soiling in the pocket. If you prefer, you can offer the
better grade for a small sum. It is well to give the prospective customer
Hundreds of Uses:
The Guide is designed to tell you HOW to print rather than
WHAT to print. Most of the popular uses for Kelsey equipment which have
not been specifically mentioned so far been specifically mentioned so far
in the Guide are what might be called straight printing work - for
specific purposes, perhaps, but not requiring any different treatment than
the average run of job work done by most Kelsey owners who print for
profit rather than for themselves.
We urge every new press owner to keep all the samples of
printing which come his way, and particularly those which are along the
lines of the work which he wishes to do.
If you are particularly interested in church work, or
label printing, or Christmas cards, or stationery, or any other specialty,
you will not find it difficult to acquire enough samples to be very
helpful. That doesn't mean you will want to slavishly copy other people's
printing, even if you had the same type styles - it does mean that you
will find the answers to many of your questions on how to lay out your
work in similar printing that you pick up. Event he advertising you see in
newspapers will help. You will soon find yourself able to proceed
independently and with confidence, as well as with genuine satisfaction in
your own accomplishments.
To Set Up the Star Press:
First assemble the stand which consists of upper shelf,
lower shelf, four legs and two extensions (long) angle irons. Two for the
legs have holes thru which the motor bracket support rod must pass and
these should be assembled at the same narrower end of the stand. The two
(long) extension angle irons should be attached outside the legs at top
with the larger holes into the angle iron up - the press will be bolted to
these angle irons.