Print on a sheet of paper with the register as you want
it. Gauge pins at the correct setting. Then, leaving sheet in the correct
spot on the gauge pins, make three deep cuts at each of two upper corners
Take the sheet of printed paper from the press and paste
it over or under spots where the impression is too light.
Lift bails, and the top sheet of the tympan paper (do not
disturb gauge pins), and put the paper with makeready on it under the top
sheet of the tympan paper, aligning cuts at corners with cuts in the
second sheet of tympan paper. Cover with the top sheet of tympan paper,
The illustrations shown cover the method of procedure very
thoroughly. For ease of demonstration, one large word is shown, but the
system applies equally to a form of small type, cuts, or both--in fact any
kind of printing. For convenience's sake the platen is shown as if it were
not a part of the press, but it should be understood that no removal of
the platen is implied.
As will be seen from the diagrams, several overlays of
different sizes may be applied, one over the other, when necessary to
bring up the impression properly. It is also important to see that the
sheet with the overlays on is in the exact spot to produce the proper
results, because if it is a little too much to one side or the other, the
result will be over-impression in one place, and under-impression in
Very thin paper should be used for overlays. Tissue may be
used, manifold, or what is known as French folio. The quality of your
printing will be determined quite a little by the appearance of the
impression, and if you use care with your overlays, you will be very much
satisfied with the results.
If the Printed Impression is Muddy, It May Be:
(1) Too much ink. A surprisingly small quantity is all
that is necessary.
(2) Type form needs cleaning. Be sure that form is
dried thoroughly before again running rollers over it, so that cleaning
liquid will not dilute the ink and cause more trouble.
(3) Temperature of room is too low. Best result are
obtained at 70 degrees or more, at which temperature ink flows freely and
rollers are at their best.
(4) Rollers are sliding instead of rolling over form.
A bearer or track of wood furniture, locked into the chase at the far
side, or one on both sides at the height of the type will often provide a
surface which will prevent rollers 5 from sliding. See elsewhere for other
causes of sliding.
(5) Ink too
thick. A very small drop of ink reducer. reducing compound or even
kerosene will help. Be sure to use only a drop.
(6) Ink has too much skin in it. Ink when left in the
container with top or cover off will "skin over," and if this skin is put
on the ink table, it often causes trouble Use only clear ink, free from
(7) Ink was put on immediately after cleaning and is
diluted by cleaner. Even a drop or so picked up from the crevices in
the type form or cracks or cuts in the rollers will affect ink. Clean
rollers and ink table bone- dry, then re-ink.
Printed Impression Is Not Clear
(1) Not enough impression on platen. Put a sheet of
waste paper in press (to prevent type from marking tympan or padding)
bring handle down so platen is against type and tighten up on screws on
back of platen-just a little, tightening more on the side which gives the
poorest or lightest printed impression. Take another proof, and if this
improves but does not entirely remedy the appearance, tighten a little
more, gradually bringing up to the proper impression. Large forms will
require a stiffer adjustment than small ones. Do not put so much pressure
on the screws that it shows on the other side of the paper.
(2) The wrong kind of tympan For small forms, cards,
etc., the tympan and packing should be thin and hard, two or three sheets
of thin, hard, smooth paper over a thin cardboard. For larger forms a few
sheets may be added. For solid forms of small type a somewhat softer
tympan, such as four or' five sheets of soft, cheap white paper, may give
the best results. Remember that the harder the tympan and the lighter the
impression, the sharper and clearer the printing, and the less the wear on
the type. After a little experience you will be able to quickly choose the
right tympan for any job.
(3) Needs underlaying. When type or cuts do not print
when those surrounding them do, they are probably low. First make sure
that the form is planed down level.
(4) Needs overlay.
(5) Rollers sliding on form. This is fully
(6) Not enough ink. This is the least likely of all
causes with the beginner, the tendency being to put too much on. You can
test this by putting a little more on, and if this does not seem to
improve the work, wiping the excess off again.
(7) Temperature, too low. See "Muddy Impression."
(8) Form not perfectly smooth and flat. This is
absolutely essential. If you have not an imposing surface, take chase bed
and chase out of the press together, loosen chase screws, and tap the form
down lightly with the planer and mallet. In the absence of a planer, use
an absolutely smooth and flat piece of' wood. Move planer from side to
side, making sure to cover the whole form in this way. Tighten chase
screws, each one a little at a time, so that the form will lock up
straight, and that unequal pressure will not crack the chase. After
tightening them a little, plane the form down again, and finish tightening
of the chase screws.
(9) Type is "off its feet"---that is, does not set
squarely on its base.
Planing and relocking the form as described above will
often remedy this. Sometimes it is caused by not spacing out the lines
fully, so that while the chase screws on one side will take hold, those on
the other side do not get a chance to squeeze all the lines. Take out a
line which is spaced properly, set your composing stick to exactly fit
that line, and then one by one, take out the short lines and replace them
as described in the directions. Sometimes two or three lines have been
over-spaced, causing the form to tighten against these long lines, and
leaving the other lines loose. In that case, take out the long lines and
space them properly. Occasionally - quite often - if the form has a border
around it, a lead or thin piece of furniture will become slightly
misplaced in the locking up, causing the form to pinch in places, and
twist out of shape. This will often cause type to appear off its feet. The
use of corner quads will overcome this trouble. See "crooked type forms."
(10) Wrong kind of ink. Many Purpose ink will handle
most work, but if you are printing shaded cuts or halftones we recommend
Halftone ink. Sometimes on very hard surfaced paper of high rag content, a
stiffer ink is needed. Bond Black ink will be most satisfactory for such
(11) Rollers are too hard, old or worn. See "How to
Take Care of Rollers".
(12) Rollers too crusted with old ink. See "Care of
Rollers," mentioned above.
(13) Type old and worn, or letters mutilated. If your
equipment is new, you will have no trouble about worn type, but if you
have purchased old equipment, you may have some type whose face is so worn
and rounded that perfect results are almost impossible. A very soft tympan
will sometimes produce better work, although it is advisable to turn in
the old type for new as soon as possible. We make a liberal allowance for
old type metal in exchange for brand new faces. Be careful to keep the
face of good type free from anything that might injure it. Anything left
on the face of the type, while an impression is taken, will leave its
mark. Be very carful that the grippers are never between the form and the
platen, before you take an impression. The grippers must always be in a
location which will prevent their marring the surface, as must the gauge
Lines or Entire Form Are Crooked:
(1) Chase screws not equally tight. Take chase out of
press, loosen chase screws and follow directions under "Impression not
clear," item 9.
(2) Lead or piece of furniture misplaced. In locking
up a form, it is very easy for a single two point lead or thin piece of
furniture to be accidentally moved just enough to wedge the form entirely
out of shape. Check over your form and look for something of this sort.