How to Start a Stationery and Job Printing Business:

It might almost be said that a business of this kind will start itself, so easy is it to obtain orders. Just let it be known among friends, relative and acquaintances that you have a printing outfit, and you will have plenty of jobs offered you. Everybody you know is a prospect for stationery and cards at the very least. People have acquired the habit of using stationery with name, monogram or address, and this opens up a tremendous market for you in stationery alone, to say nothing of cards, tickets, programs, advertising matter, billheads, factory and office forms, statements, handbills, menus, church calendars lodge and club printing, etc. We furnish a complete line of blank stationery of all kinds, both boxed and unboxed, cards, paper, blotters, etc.

If you want to get your business started quickly, print up a small card, or better yet a blotter, giving your name and address and announcing that you are prepared to do printing at attractive prices. If you use a large enough card, get in a little "selling talk"--that is, state why everyone should have his name and address on every letter he sends out (because of the good appearance, because if undelivered it will be returned, etc.) Offer to call and talk it over with the prospective purchaser. Distribute these cards or blotters from door to door, by mail, or among any gathering you may attend. Returns will not be long in coming. "It Pays to Advertise"--In fact, many lines of business cannot exist without adverting--and in addition to doing advertising yourself, you can print advertising for others--at a profit. Suggest new ways of adverting to your business customers. Small calendars and cards, blotters, puzzles of one kind or another, card game score cards, railroad, plane and bus schedules, baseball score cards, sports calendars--and dozens of other. If you belong to a lodge, club, church or any organization, you already have an inside track to many profitable jobs of tickets, programs, notices, due slips, etc. Make the most of all your opportunities. Dozens of them will show if you are wide awake.


It is not possible to lay down invariable rules for prices, because competition makes them vary in different localities. Far West or South prices are as a general rule higher, because of being farther from source of supplies. The prices given below should therefore be considered only for the help they give you to establish fair figures. A little quiet investigation in your locality will soon give you a line on quotations, prevailing, after which you will be able to do just as well as anybody--and better, if you want to.

Visiting cards, name only, 50 for $1.50, 35 cents for each additional line(address, etc.) Business Cards, 100 for $2.75 (one line) 35 cents for each additional line and about $1.00 to $1.50 for each of any additional hundred printed. Price should vary on Business Cards according to size of card used. This price is for small or medium. Low priced bond stationery, 100 6x7 sheets and 100 envelopes, $1.75 and higher pries for a better grade, up to $6.00 for raised printed stationery in the same quantity, with proportionate prices for a larger number of sheets. Statements and Bill Heads, 250 for $4.85. Low priced bond, 8 1/2x11 Business Letter Heads 250 for $4.85. Envelopes $3.50, 1,000 sheets for $7.75. Envelopes, $7.85, 35 cents a line additional for more than three lines. Better grades and raised printing higher -- according to paper used and time required. Two color work, $3.50 extra. Small handbills and circulars, 3x5, 100 for $5.00, 1,000 for $7.50. Add $3.50 for extra color in all cases--more if it is a bigger job or larger edition. Larger circulars--in proportion to size and number required. Tags same as envelopes.

Keep a record of time and cost on all jobs, for use in making future prices.

Envelope Printing:

Envelopes, owing to the various thicknesses of paper at different points, often require a little more work in preparation for printing than a job on a single sheet of paper. The overlapping and the gum which holds the flaps cause thick places which must be compensated for if the printing does cover more than one different thickness. Sometimes this can be avoided by opening out the flaps, particularly when the corner card you are going to print is small, and the envelope is "high cut"--that is, the top of the back side is almost parallel with the tip of the front. In this case, you will be printing on two thicknesses, so that the type will not be held off one part of the envelope by two or more thicknesses in one spot, and a fewer number in another.


Envelopes Fig 1 Envelopes Fig 3
Fig 2 Fig 4

When you do want to print on the flap itself, and the corner card will run over more than one different layer of paper, it is customary to take ane envelope for the lot you are going to use and with the point of a knife or a pin, punch small holes through the tympan one at each upper corner and one at lower right hand corner. Take an impression of the work to be printed on the envelope on a single sample. This must be cut out so that when the cut envelope and an uncut envelope are laid on each other, the number of paper thicknesses at all points will be the same. Thus at points A, on figure 1 of the illustration, there ae four thicknesses of paper, and all the other points must be built up to this figure. Where the flap goes over at points B and C, there are three thicknesses, requiring one more to make up to the maximum four, and points I, E, and F, having only two thicknesses to equalize, require only two thicknesses more.

These cut-outs and thicknesses must be cut exactly, and it is therefore necessary to know just where the paper laps over. This can be ascertained by running a lend pencil at right angles with the joint, the same as you would take a rubbing of a coin.

You are now ready to cut out the skeleton envelope. A, having the greatest number of thicknesses, is cut out entirely. B and C having the next largest number, should have all but the front thickness cut away. D, E, and F have only two thicknesses, and are therefore left.

Paste the envelope thus prepared face up on the tympan sheet directly under the top sheet, being careful to match it with marks previously punched. If this is done correctly, you can print envelopes without any difficulty.

shows through distinctly on the back.

Proper Care of Type:

Proper care of type insures long and satisfactory service. Great care must be used not to subject it to unnecessary pressure and that every letter and point in a form is carefully planed down, that it may not be worn by the extra pressure coming from being higher than the others. Never print a card with an impression so heavy that it shows through distinctly on the back. The same rule applies to paper to a certain extent, though in printing a full form of small type so much packing must be used on the platen that the type will usually emboss through slightly.

Never allow ink to harden on type; wash it off as soon as taken from the press and distribute it as soon as your job is finished. Type left standing around is very apt to be hit and the face broken.


Type should always be cleaned at once after using. Remove form from press and before unlocking, take a rag wet with benzine or gasoline and carefully wipe the faces of the whole until no ink or dirt remains. For those who don't wish to use highly inflammable liquids such as benzine and gasoline. we recommend our Printoclene care must be used not to subject Wipe furniture, chase and all parts of it to unnecessary pressure and that the hich is listed in the catalog. Use a small, stiff brush if the type is badly filled up. Wipe furniture, chase and all parts of the form, as well as the type, with benzine until everything is perfectly clean. In case ink gets dry and hard in the type, make a solution of our alkali cleaner preparation and use according to directions on the can.

How to Take Care of Rollers:

Ink rollers are one of the most important parts of your printing press, and in order to produce good printing, it is very important that you take care of your rollers as outlined in these instructions. Rollers should be much like the human skin in feeling. They are extremely susceptible to heat, cold and varying degrees of moisture in the air. On damp, muggy, summer days, rollers will absorb moisture, become water-logged, and will not distribute ink satisfactorily. When a roller is in this condition, it becomes soft and will increase from 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch in diameter. To overcome this condition, wipe off the rollers very carefully--so as not to spoil the surface--many times with a cloth wet with alcohol, or in really bad cases, cover the rollers with powdered alum, rubbed on with the hand. Let them stand for a while and wipe with a DRY cloth. If the rollers are only slightly swelled and appear to be tough enough to stand use, you can wind a little bicycle or electric tape around the roller wheels to make them approximately the same diameter as the rollers.

In the winter time, conditions are just reversed. The atmosphere is cold and dry, your print shop is heated, the moisture dries out of your rollers and they in turn harden up and shrink in size. Oftentimes, a roller in this condition may be brought back by coating it over with a mixture of one part alcohol and one part glycerine, letting it stand near a pan of water several hours.

To partly compensate for these two extremes, we have two kinds of rollers, winter and summer grades. The summer rollers are made much harder than the winter rollers to help overcome the difference in humidity.

In some localities, where the climate is always humid or always dry the year round you may need either summer rollers all year, or winter rollers all year, regardless of the calendar. Printers in the San Francisco Bay region say that they get the best results with hard rollers in winter and soft rollers in summer, because of greater humidity in winter than summer. In warm dry climates such as Arizona and New Mexico, a winter roller will work well. If you do not want the rollers normally sent out because of these varying conditions, PLEASE SPECIFY WHEN YOU ORDER But, no matter how we make the rollers, you must do your part. After use, rollers should be carefully cleaned at once while the ink is still fresh and easily removed. Use Printoclene, thin machine oil, or kerosene and a cloth to soften and wipe off the ink. After the rollers are thoroughly cleaned, give them a heavy coating of machine oil and stand them up vertically on a bench board or in a box. If you will be sure to keep them covered with machine oil when not in use, they will not only last longer, but will be in the proper condition when you want to use them. Note--When coating rollers with oil to keep them from shrinking or swelling, coat the ends also. (Be sure to coat over all of the composition.)

Kelsey plastic all-weather rollers are good the year round in all climates. Plastic all-season rollers should be wiped clean, and left without oil or grease on them. If you wish to wash up the rollers and use them again right away, such as when you wish to change the color or kind of ink, then and every six months, but do not throw only then is it advisable to use benzine or gasoline. Kerosene, as well as machine oil, is greasy and unless great care is used to wipe the rollers dry, some of it is likely to be left on the rollers and spoil the next job you run. You can tell when this is the case because the ink will appear greasy and the rollers will not distribute the ink properly. If you expect to use the press again within 24 hours, you can put a little machine or motor oil on the ink table, run the rollers up and down over it a number of times, and the ink on the rollers and table will stay soft so that it can easily be cleaned off the next day. Don't let it stand longer than 24 hours, however.

If by any chance ink has hardened on rollers, try first to wash it off with benzine or gasoline. If this does not do it, try benzol or acetone or a mixture of the two. These fluids are commonly sold by drug stores. Do not use except in extreme cases, as they have a tendency to dry out and crack the roller surface.

Rollers work best in a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees. It is advisable to keep your room as near this temperature as possible, and have the heat on for at least an hour before printing, so that the rollers, ink table and ink are thoroughly warmed up. If rollers are too cold and hard to work, warm them carefully but DON'T leave them near steam-pipes,etc.; if you do, you may find them melted out of shape when you return.

To get the best results, new rollers should be put on your press every six months, but do not throw away the old ones at once. Save them to use when printing forms with sharp rule or leaders, and avoid cutting up face of new rollers. Sometimes, in hot, muggy weather an old, tough roller will work much better than a new one.

Keep several sets of rollers of varying degrees of hardness on hand. It won't cost any more than using one set all the time. Every climate is subject to changes by having rollers of various kinds, you can use the ones best suited to the weather and the job. They will save their cost many times over in time, stock, and results accomplished. 

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